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OPINIONS · TRAVEL

Amadeus: Rhein und Wein

Rhine valley landscape and vineyards

Born high in the Alps, the Rhine carries its waters to the North Sea through six Western European countries: Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria, Germany, France, and the Netherlands. Add the many tributaries and canals that make up the Rhine waterway system, and you will see that there is no better way to discover Europe than by taking a river cruise.

Generally speaking, Rhine itineraries fall into three geographical regions: the northern route (from Cologne downstream through Belgium to Holland), the central route (from Cologne upstream to Koblenz or still farther toward Switzerland), and the southern route, continuing into the Danube all the way to the Black Sea.

The shortest three-day routes are the northern ones, from Cologne to Amsterdam. Add two days to your vacation schedule and the journey becomes considerably more interesting, thanks to stops in Rotterdam and Antwerp.

Here is an example of such a cruise.

On the first day, after boarding the ship and dropping your belongings in your cabin, you can take the walking sightseeing tour of Cologne offered by the tour operator: visit the Rhine Garden, stroll through the Old Town, and step inside Cologne Cathedral, dedicated to Saints Peter and Mary (St.-Peter-und-Mariendom). Those who are not easily impressed by Cologne's architectural landmarks can spend the time remaining before departure exploring modern art in the city's galleries and museums. It is better to refrain from shopping in Cologne: Belgium and Holland lie ahead, with their enormous selection of cutting-edge designer boutiques. But do not forget to sample local beers. Cologne has 32 private breweries producing varieties appreciated throughout the world.

Your next day will be devoted entirely to Rotterdam. A sightseeing tour takes you through the old town and across the Erasmus Bridge to the Holland America Line quay, from which the first emigrants departed for America. Since the city is not particularly interesting from an architectural point of view, most companies offer coach excursions to The Hague and Delft.

The next leg takes you along a canal. This old waterway between Amsterdam and Utrecht was opened in 1952, then widened in the 1970s and extended southward. The canal is up to 120 meters wide and 6 meters deep, and your ship will pass through three locks.

Amsterdam will enchant you with its medieval buildings, stone bridges, museums, and splendid parks. A city tour includes the central square and Royal Palace, the Flower Market, the university district, and a boat trip along the canals. Be sure to visit the Van Gogh Museum and the Diamond Museum. The city offers fascinating shopping opportunities: the proud Dutch nurture their own designers, as well as their own chefs. The most popular shopping district is De Negen Straatjes, the Nine Streets, with about a hundred designer boutiques, including wildly popular vintage stores. The two magnificent department stores Kalvertoren and Magna Plaza are located on the central Kalverstraat.

Good news for lovers of gastronomy: in May of this year, the celebrated restaurant De Librije, situated on the outskirts of Amsterdam and ranked twenty-ninth by the World's 50 Best Restaurant Awards, opened a second dining room in the capital's Waldorf Astoria hotel. These people have won recognition for their unbridled culinary imagination. They have thought of serving egg yolk frozen at minus twenty degrees Celsius, rabbit kidneys, and cod intestines delicately described as 'stomachs.' A seven-course tasting menu costs 120 euros. There is, of course, a chance you will be unable to swallow a single morsel. In that case, do not despair: in whichever city your ship docks, a table will be waiting for you on board every day at lunch and dinner.

Amsterdam has several Michelin-starred restaurants. Admirers of molecular cuisine will certainly want to visit Ron Gastrobar at Sophialaan 55. Fish lovers, meanwhile, may be tempted by the menu at Ciel Bleu, at Ferdinand Bolstraat 333, on the twenty-third floor of the Okura hotel. Here they boil the legs of freshly thawed Atlantic crab and stuff a whole aquarium lobster with sturgeon caviar, which for some reason they call 'Siberian.' But do not rush to spend your money on these dubious delicacies. Enjoy the view of the city from above, have a cup of coffee, and make your escape.

You will have plenty of the seafood you long for the following day, when you travel by bus to the fishing village of Volendam. These marshy regions are famous for their abundance of eels, a valuable fish sold at Volendam's celebrated fish auction. You will be able to sample the freshest smoked eel straight from a boat and have lunch in one of the many little restaurants on fish that were still merrily moving their fins that very morning, unaware of their imminent encounter with you. Some operators also arrange excursions to Edam, where generous tastings at local cheese makers can replace even the most substantial lunch.

A sightseeing tour of Antwerp will occupy an entire day: the old town, the main square with the Brabo Fountain, the famous Town Hall, a magnificent example of Flemish Renaissance architecture, the splendid Cathedral of Our Lady, and a walk along the River Scheldt with a visit to the castle.

Ships usually spend two days in Antwerp so that passengers can explore other Belgian towns farther inland. So, if your operator offers a bus trip to Bruges, take it. Time seems to have stood still in this extraordinary town for three hundred years. On the return journey, most ships call at Düsseldorf. This is your opportunity to reward yourself for a week of abstaining from shopping—and rush straight to the Kö.

In the Land of Lorelei

I would hate to disappoint prospective travelers, but in fairness it must be said that the northern stretches of the Rhine, beautiful as they are in their own way, cannot compare with the southern ones. Zoom Unfiltered Media therefore wholeheartedly recommends that readers take advantage of the remaining warm months and set off southward along the Rhine without delay.

Whichever southern itinerary you choose, your route will take you through the land of Lorelei, with its picturesque surroundings and romantic knights' castles. It will also lead through the vineyards where Riesling, Moselle wines, and the masterpiece of local winemakers, ice wine, are produced.

Tour operators offer many variations. The shortest and most practical is Amsterdam to Basel, or the reverse. Your journey begins in Amsterdam, which we already know, but on the third day breathtaking panoramas of Rhineland-Palatinate open before you. This stretch of the Rhine between Mainz and Cologne, the Middle Rhine, is so beautiful that UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site in 2002.

On the following day comes the main attraction: tastings of Rhine and Moselle wines. Your operator will make sure you have the opportunity to visit as many small wine cellars as possible in the riverside towns. Do not try to memorize the names of the varieties. There are about a thousand of them today, and local winemakers register new ones every year. There are no bad wines here. Prepare roomy bags and take at least twenty bottles back on board—enough to last until the end of the journey. To replenish your collection at home, wine merchants can arrange delivery to your address; the precious cases will be waiting at your door by the time you return.

Little towns nestle among the picturesque hills of the Moselle bend known as the Cochemer Krampen, each claiming to be the home of the best Moselle wine. But do not forget the cultural program. The famous city of Koblenz stands where the Rhine meets the Moselle. At the confluence is the celebrated Deutsches Eck, or German Corner, with its monument to Wilhelm I. In the town of Cochem, a cable car leads to the summit of the Pinnerberg, where you can enjoy a breathtaking view. Another famous monument in this area is the majestic Germania, symbolizing the founding of the German Empire in 1871.

Although Lorelei is an imaginary character, her image has acquired such cultural and historical importance here that local inhabitants, proud of their beautiful homeland, voted unanimously for the right to call it the Land of Lorelei. Lorelei Rock rises above the surrounding countryside. Like every tourist who comes here, you will certainly be taken to its summit to see for yourself that rumors of the region's beauty have not been exaggerated.

At the foot of the rock, the Rhine makes a sharp turn. Sand deposited by the water forms a treacherous underwater shoal at this point. To this day, an inattentive captain risks running a ship aground. But Lorelei's songs have nothing to do with it, of course. One simply needs to pay more attention.

The little town of Sankt Goarshausen, or simply Sankt Goar, traces its history to the distant days when the proud Counts of Katzenelnbogen, having obtained freedom from feudal dependence from King Ludwig IV, erected Burg Katz opposite Lorelei Rock. Today this architectural treasure belongs to a mysterious Japanese businessman. Exactly what kind of business this descendant of the samurai pursues in Germany is unknown. But from time to time the gates of the stone fortress open and those who wish can spend a night in one of the castle's guest rooms.

Fortunately, you will not have to do that: your ship sails on. Fortunately, because a night beneath cold stone vaults, even on feather mattresses, is recommended only for those immune to colds. Ghosts undoubtedly inhabit the castle. And cunning vampires disguised as Japanese servants watch their future victims closely. Guests are naturally offered a dinner of traditional local bourgeois dishes. Yet when, later in the night, you hear bloodcurdling screams and groans from the neighboring chambers, you may begin to harbor disturbing suspicions about the true origins of the schnitzel you ate.

Not far from Katz Castle stand the remains of Maus Castle, built by a knightly clan hostile to the Katzenelnbogens. Here you can watch a falconry demonstration, an interesting and, in its own way, unique spectacle.

Across the Rhine are the neat ruins of Rheinfels Castle. Beside them stands the hotel of the same name, one of Germany's finest, whose true quality is in no way dependent on its number of stars. You will surely have time for lunch in its excellent restaurant, where traditional German bourgeois cuisine is served.

For several days now, your journey has turned into one continuous wine festival. Yet you will meet the leading character of this festival only in Rüdesheim, on Drosselgasse, where the most delightful wine cellars and restaurants can be found. The oldest, Drosselhof, has been serving guests since 1727. Nearby, in the Brömserburg fortress, is the unique Rheingau Wine Museum. Lovers of the Middle Ages will enjoy the torture museum, where numerous devices designed to put an end to life are on display.

On the sixth day of the journey, your ship will berth in Mannheim, the principal city of Baden-Württemberg. The city's symbol is its water tower, rising over Friedrichsplatz, famous for its splendid fountain. Another landmark is Mannheim Palace.

But there is no reason to stay in the city too long. Your guide will surely have a stronger attraction prepared: an excursion to Heidelberg, Germany's old university town, founded in 1386. Every house here has a unique history linked to the names of its guests. Einstein, Bohr, Oppenheimer, Planck, and many others once stayed beneath these tiled roofs.

An alternative bus excursion leads to Speyer, which escaped the bombing of the Second World War, so that history lives and breathes in every stone. Speyer is called 'Little Italy' because of its many charming restaurants with terraces open all year round. The local cafés offer traditional cakes and pastries of exceptional quality. Even a simple pretzel is so good here that an annual Pretzel Day is celebrated in its honor.

On the seventh day, you will discover Strasbourg, the capital of French Alsace. The city has two centers: a delightful old quarter with canals, little locks, streets, and cathedrals, and a modern district housing the European Parliament and other institutions. After admiring the architecture, have lunch at Perles de Saveurs, at 9 Rue des Dentelles, a restaurant that has achieved international fame even across the Atlantic. Besides its magnificent creative cuisine, the establishment has one curious and, as you will discover, most pleasant feature: it is a genuine gourmet restaurant without the snobbery and expense usually associated with gourmet dining. An excellent lunch costs fourteen euros, and the menu changes every week. Even seemingly ordinary dishes contain something unexpected—for instance, pieces of salmon served floating in melted cheeses.

And here, at last, is Basel, capital of the Swiss canton of Basel-Stadt, near the German and French borders. The Rhine divides the city into two parts joined by six bridges. Basel's main attractions are concentrated on the left bank: the country's oldest university and the central square with its red-brick Town Hall. Nearby is Barfüsserplatz, a favorite gathering place for students, with its charming Barfüsserkirche, and sixteen museums, at least two of which are worth visiting: the Music Museum and the History Museum. Being in Switzerland, even for just a few hours, one simply must try cheese fondue. The fondue at Elsbethenstübli, 34 Elisabethenstrasse, enjoys a good reputation.

They say that before eating calorie-rich fondue one should fill one's stomach with vegetables. You can do that nearby at Escasano, renowned around the world for its environmentally friendly and inventive salad bar.

If this is not your first visit to Switzerland, you are probably familiar with the country's most traditional and venerable restaurant chain, Kohlmanns. Here traditional Swiss Läckerli—delicacies—are prepared to a high gastronomic standard: trout in port-wine sauce, zucchini caviar with goat's cheese, duck with liqueur, salmon and beef tartare, and oxtail roulade.

It should not be forgotten that, although the Swiss do not boast about their wines as loudly as the Italians, local winemakers know their grapes as well as anyone else on the continent. In the restaurants here you will not encounter arrogant sommeliers thrusting a freshly extracted cork beneath your nose while reciting meaningless advertising slogans. The Swiss are a thorough people and trust only their own palates. Consequently, in the cellar of even the most ordinary restaurant one may occasionally discover bottles of a divine drink whose taste will never be forgotten. Do not hesitate to ask, and you will be rewarded.

The Swiss cruise departs every week. This year's last departure leaves Antwerp on November 3.

On the Waves of the Danube

Without a doubt, those who can devote at least two weeks to their journey will get the fullest pleasure from a river cruise, following the entire route from Amsterdam along the Rhine, through the Main–Danube Canal, and down the Danube to Vienna and Budapest.

Having traveled the route we already know through the land of Lorelei, beyond Mainz your ship bids farewell to the Rhine and enters its tributary, the Main. The most important city here is Würzburg, capital of Franconia and a former princely residence with palaces of incredible beauty that must be visited. You will then be taken to the Glass Museum in Wertheim and to the old Bavarian town of Miltenberg, whose houses, apparently bound together with wooden beams, are considered among the most beautiful in Germany.

The next stage is passage through the Main–Danube Canal. This unique creation of engineering ingenuity takes your ship to the Danube through a system of sixteen locks. Passing through the locks is a fascinating sight. But your vessel will pass through only some of them in daylight, so make sure the flash on your device is working.

The canal itself begins at Bamberg, a town comfortably spread across seven hills above the broad valley of the Regnitz River in Upper Franconia, Bavaria. This enchanting town is itself a complete work of art, a masterpiece of medieval architecture, deservedly designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The next stop is Nuremberg, birthplace of the outstanding painter Albrecht Dürer, whose museum you must visit. The canal ends near Kelheim, and you will see with your own eyes that the waters of the Danube really are blue. From Kelheim to Weltenburg Abbey, your vessel will pass through the so-called Danube Gorge. This is a unique geographical formation where the river cuts through a mountain plateau, forming limestone cliffs of fantastic shapes. Many of the rocks are so picturesque that they have been given their own names: the Three Quarreling Brothers, Robbers' Rock, Bavarian Lion, Bishop's Hat, Peter and Paul, the Beehive, Napoleon's Suitcase, and others.

At the confluence of the Danube and the Regen stands Regensburg, the seat of a Roman Catholic bishop. Regensburg is an unusual city. Its historic center is also on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Its treasures include not only cathedrals and buildings but also old Bavarian recipes preserved by local cooks. Here stands the oldest sausage kitchen in Bavaria and the world, Historische Wurstküche, to which you will surely be taken.

Perhaps by this point all these old towns with their Gothic churches and tiled roofs will cease to inspire enthusiasm. But be patient a little longer and take a walk through the old quarter of the Bavarian town of Passau, at the confluence of three rivers.

The route continues to the Austrian city of Linz, where Europe's finest coffeehouses serve the most delicious Linzer torte. From there, you will be offered a coach excursion to Mozart's birthplace, Salzburg.

On the eleventh day, your ship will berth at Emmersdorf, from which you will be driven to the Wachau Valley to meet Austrian winemakers.

Wine tastings continue in the delightful town of Krems an der Donau. The next stop is Melk, an ancient town with its unique fortress-monastery, where stern Benedictine monks still guard the extraordinary treasures of Bavarian kings.

And finally, magnificent Vienna. Besides its countless architectural monuments, museums, galleries, and boutiques, this splendid city boasts 2,392 restaurants, at least a hundred of which deserve a visit. An impossible task when your ship stays here for only two days. The solution is to declare a 'day of cakes.' The city center is full of traditional coffeehouses. Having tried every variety of coffee and hot chocolate and every kind of cake, soufflé, and strudel, you will certainly gain a few extra kilograms, but you will spend the rest of your life enjoying the sweetest memories. As for tasting traditional Austrian dishes, your ship's chef has undoubtedly already taken care of that.

One more stop in Bratislava, the welcoming little capital of Slovakia, and then your ship drops anchor in its final port: Budapest, outrageously dirty and yet still beautiful.

The price of this 'grand' cruise starts at 2,160 euros—not much for fourteen nights with full board aboard a luxury riverboat.

The Ships

Speaking of ships: around three hundred passenger vessels sail the Rhine and its tributaries at different times of the year. All these boats, so unassuming on the outside, are truly splendid within. Among Europe's best-known river cruise operators are Germany's A-ROSA and Austria's AMADEUS River Cruises. A-ROSA AQUA and A-ROSA VIVA still carry passengers, although today the former sails mainly on the Rhine and the latter on the Seine. The famous Amadeus ships of Austria's Lüftner company continue to operate luxurious cruises on Europe's waterways, including the Rhine and Danube. Built in 2013, AMADEUS Silver, now known as A-SILVER, remains part of a fleet that adds new five-star riverboats every year. In 2026 its newest vessel is AMADEUS Aurea, and AMADEUS Mira is scheduled to enter service in 2027.

Restaurants aboard all the ships are managed by highly qualified professionals of Austrian gastronomy, so excellent food is guaranteed. Red and white wines of the so-called 'house' varieties are served free with dinner.

The welcome and farewell dinners feature a special dessert in the finest European culinary tradition, along with an introduction to the crew. Hotel services—cabin furnishings and sanitation—aboard all passenger vessels are managed by strict German supervisors. Cleanliness on board is practically sterile, and the staff are impeccably trained.

The ships are constructed along roughly similar lines. On the upper deck there is a swimming pool surrounded by loungers under an awning. When the vessel passes beneath bridges, the awning is lowered and sunbathers have to leave the deck. As everyone knows, sunny days are not especially plentiful in a Central European summer, so chances are you will not get much swimming or sunbathing.

Artists and musicians live on board, so the daily entertainment programs are also of a high standard.

Every ship has beauty and fitness salons, a bar, and a library. On newer vessels, cabins are arranged across three decks, with large windows and balconies facing outward. Older ships have only two decks, and the lower cabins have, instead of windows, a romantic relic of the past: portholes against which waves from passing vessels splash. But these two-deck boats carry fewer passengers and have especially good kitchens. The newest vessels accommodate up to four hundred passengers on three decks. When fully booked, dinner has to be served in two sittings, and getting into the luxurious spa becomes almost impossible.

Think carefully about which of the excursions on offer you wish to take. The old centers of small riverside towns are generally explored on foot. Museums here are free or very inexpensive. The desire to step into a local boutique, have a drink, or grab a bite may arise at any moment, and usually that moment will not coincide with the plans of the other participants in an organized excursion. Having a guide and fellow tourists along may therefore hinder rather than help you. Besides, when you leave the ship, maps of the towns with useful visitor information are always available at the reception desk. The editorial advice: use organized excursions only in big cities such as Basel, Strasbourg, Nuremberg, Vienna, and Budapest, and for bus trips.

As a rule, a ship stays in port all day, from eight in the morning until eleven at night, or during the evening, from six until midnight. River ports in most towns are close to the center, so you can leave the ship and return several times throughout the day. You can have lunch aboard, enjoy an afternoon rest in your own cabin, and then set off exploring again.