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Britain: The Islands of Fortune

London cityscape

Great Britain is an island nation northwest of continental Europe. The island of Great Britain comprises England, Scotland, and Wales. The United Kingdom also includes Northern Ireland, on the island of Ireland, and many smaller islands, including the Hebrides, Orkney, and Shetland.

The moderating influence of the Atlantic Ocean and the North Atlantic Drift gives southern Britain cool, often rainy summers and relatively mild, rainy winters. Practical Britons respond to the vagaries of their weather with woolen clothing, raincoats, rubber boots, umbrellas, and warming drinks.

A Scandalous History

Since time immemorial, the history of these islands has been rich in scandals, which in turn have provided plots for world literature. Relatively few sensational personal details survive from Roman rule and the arrival of the Angles, Saxons, and other Germanic peoples. But the scandals begin to flow more freely in accounts of the Plantagenet dynasty, which ruled England from the twelfth century. The dynasty began with Henry II in 1154. Oxford had already developed as a center of learning by that period, and its expansion was helped by restrictions on English scholars traveling to Paris. A later dispute in Oxford in 1209 led scholars to migrate to Cambridge, helping establish the university there. Scotland, meanwhile, founded the University of St Andrews in 1413—not simply because Scots and English students could not get along. Centuries later, Prince William and Catherine Middleton met while studying at St Andrews.

The Scots were not a people England could easily bring to heel. Centuries of conflict included the Wars of Scottish Independence. The Wars of the Roses, however, were a different struggle: a fifteenth-century dynastic conflict among rival English royal factions, ending with the rise of the Tudors in 1485. They did not result in Scotland separating from England, which remained a separate kingdom until the union of 1707.

The consolidation of royal power contributed to England's expansion overseas. English explorers crossed the Atlantic, colonial ventures followed, and enormous trading enterprises appeared, most notably the East India Company, founded in 1600. The English Reformation under Henry VIII was directed from the crown, although it was far from bloodless. The king's wish to annul his marriage to Catherine of Aragon helped trigger his rupture with Rome. Henry married six times: two wives were executed, two marriages ended in annulment, one wife died of natural causes, and Catherine Parr survived him. The Act of Supremacy recognized the monarch as head of the Church of England, and the dissolution of monasteries transferred vast church property into other hands. Religious struggles continued through subsequent reigns and revolutions; they cannot be reduced to a simple victory of Luther's followers.

The transition from the Tudors to the Stuarts carries one of the most dramatic royal stories. Mary, Queen of Scots, suspected of involvement in her husband's murder, fled to England seeking protection from her cousin Elizabeth I. Instead she was held prisoner and, after being implicated in a plot against Elizabeth, executed in 1587. Elizabeth died in 1603 without children; the claim that a physical disability forced her to remain a virgin is speculation. Her successor was none other than Mary's son, James VI of Scotland, who became James I of England and Ireland, joining the crowns while leaving their kingdoms institutionally distinct.

James's relationships with male favorites have fascinated historians, though a modern sexual identity cannot be assigned to him with certainty. His close association with the Duke of Buckingham, George Villiers, generated endless gossip about intimacy, power, and influence. Buckingham acquired remarkable wealth and authority under royal patronage. Accusations that he poisoned James are part of a long tradition of rumor, not an established historical fact. Buckingham subsequently remained influential under James's son, Charles I.

A remarkable number of women have occupied the British throne, and their reigns include some of the country's defining transformations. Elizabeth I, a capable political operator, exploited maritime power and sometimes benefited financially from privateering. Francis Drake's voyages brought enormous treasure and royal favor, though popular figures for his profits vary. Earlier rulers, such as Richard the Lionheart, had also found inventive ways to raise money, including selling privileges and offices to finance wars and crusades.

Mary II died of smallpox in 1694, and her final illness became part of the legend of royal duty. Queen Anne presided over the Acts of Union that created the Kingdom of Great Britain on May 1, 1707, uniting England and Scotland. Ireland was incorporated into the United Kingdom in 1801; the later partition of Ireland in the twentieth century left Northern Ireland within the UK while most of the island gained independence.

The royal succession took another extraordinary turn after Anne's death in 1714. The Act of Settlement of 1701 had restricted the succession to Protestant heirs, bypassing Catholic claimants. George I, Elector of Hanover, inherited the crown. Later came the house of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, which adopted the name Windsor in 1917 amid anti-German feeling during the First World War. The royal family's European ancestry is well documented, as are genealogical links to William the Conqueror; neither makes the modern monarchy simply “German.”

Queen Victoria ruled for more than sixty-three years and became known as the “Grandmother of Europe” because her descendants married into many royal families. This web of dynastic marriages, however, did not prevent the wars and crises that followed. Elizabeth II and Prince Philip were both descendants of Victoria and also had other family connections. After Elizabeth II died in September 2022, her son Charles III became king. The Windsor monarchy has continued to face public controversy, from the death of Diana, Princess of Wales, in 1997 to the debates surrounding the royal family in the present day.

London

A journey through Britain naturally begins with London. Its historic core includes Westminster and the City. From Trafalgar Square, Whitehall leads toward Parliament, the Mall toward Buckingham Palace, and the Strand toward the City. Parallel to the Mall is Pall Mall, near Marlborough House and St James's Palace.

Walking these streets to the chimes of the famous clock at the Palace of Westminster, visitors encounter monuments to Richard the Lionheart, Charles I, Queen Victoria, Admiral Nelson, and many others. Whitehall houses government departments and Horse Guards; the prime minister's official residence is nearby at 10 Downing Street. Big Ben, strictly speaking, is the name of the great bell inside the Elizabeth Tower.

Buckingham Palace is the monarch's official London residence, whereas Westminster Abbey is a separate church near Parliament, famous for coronations and royal burials. Parts of the palace open to the public during selected seasons, with dates varying by year. The Changing of the Guard remains a celebrated visitor attraction, but its schedule is variable and should be checked before arrival.

Medieval London lacked modern sewerage and reliable public water systems, and epidemics repeatedly swept through the city. The Great Plague of 1665 was among the worst. The following year came another catastrophe: the Great Fire of 1666, which began in a bakery on Pudding Lane, not in a deliberate effort by survivors to burn empty plague houses. One of the remarkable survivors was the Tower of London, whose origins lie in William the Conqueror's eleventh-century fortress. Over the centuries it served as a royal residence, prison, treasury, and place associated with executions. The Ceremony of the Keys, a centuries-old nighttime locking ritual, still attracts visitors; book ahead. Tower Bridge was constructed much later, opening in 1894, and is now among London's best-known landmarks.

Rising from the ashes, London eventually became a great international financial center. The City contains the Bank of England, founded in 1694, the Royal Exchange, and Guildhall, the historic civic headquarters. Nicknamed the “Square Mile,” it remains home to many financial and professional institutions.

Public theaters developed in London during the sixteenth century, with Shakespeare's Globe among the most famous. The plays and theatrical innovations of that period helped create a lasting performance tradition. Today the West End, like Broadway in New York, denotes a major center of commercial theater.

Aristocrats and courtiers settled in the West End from the early modern period onward, and much of central and western London remains prestigious and costly. Housing prices and rents are high, although the old claim that a one-bedroom apartment costs at least £1,000 monthly can no longer serve as a useful citywide price guide. Prices vary greatly by location, condition, and contract.

But where there is light, there is shadow. Historic immigration and industrialization produced deep poverty in parts of the East End, a district long associated in the popular imagination with crowded tenements, vice, and criminal violence. The Jack the Ripper murders in Whitechapel in 1888 shocked the public; their perpetrator was never conclusively identified. London's fictional response to an appetite for criminal mysteries was, among other characters, Sherlock Holmes, whose devoted admirers can visit the museum dedicated to him on Baker Street. Yet the modern East End is also a place of vibrant culture, substantial redevelopment, and communities built through generations of migration. Describing it today as a uniform ghetto would be misleading.

Art lovers should visit the Victoria and Albert Museum, the National Gallery at Trafalgar Square, and the British Museum. Madame Tussauds has become an international attraction with branches abroad, while its London original remains a popular stop for visitors.

The Victoria, Chelsea, and Albert Embankments helped reshape the Thames waterfront in the nineteenth century. More recent landmarks include the towers of Canary Wharf, the Swiss Re building known as the Gherkin, and London's celebrated civic architecture. The Millennium Dome, now the O2 entertainment venue, and the London Eye date to the turn of the millennium.

Some tourists arrive especially to visit the graves of historical figures. Westminster Abbey contains the tombs and memorials of monarchs, poets, and statesmen; St Paul's Cathedral houses monuments and burial places, including that of the Duke of Wellington. The city's celebrated Magnificent Seven Victorian cemeteries include Highgate, where Karl Marx is buried. Sigmund Freud's ashes are also at Golders Green Crematorium in London, rather than in one of those seven cemeteries. Old crypts and catacombs provide further reminders of the city's long and sometimes macabre history.

Royal parks occupy a large part of London, but pollution and traffic remain concerns. The Great Smog of 1952 led to significant clean-air reforms; modern air quality is not identical to that of the smog years. The Underground, which opened in 1863 and is the world's oldest underground railway system, is often the easiest way to move through the city.

Listing London's restaurants is a thankless task: the city's gastronomic scene is enormous, varied, and constantly changing. Fine dining here does not always require the highest prices, while centuries-old establishments coexist with adventurous newcomers. Restaurant Gordon Ramsay on Royal Hospital Road has long been celebrated for its three Michelin stars. The Ivy on West Street remains an emblem of theatrical London dining, and Rules in Covent Garden is famous for traditional British dishes, including game, pies, and puddings.

Le Gavroche, formerly at Upper Brook Street and long one of the great names of French cuisine in London, closed in January 2024. It should no longer appear on a current restaurant itinerary. The Italian restaurant San Lorenzo, once associated with Princess Diana, is part of London's hospitality lore; visitors should verify its current status rather than rely on old guides.

London has long absorbed and transformed culinary traditions from around the world. Indian restaurants such as Tamarind and Chinese restaurants such as Hakkasan illustrate a dining scene shaped as much by migration and exchange as by local tradition. Their menus, prices, and reservations should be checked directly before visiting.

The situation with hotels is even more complicated. International chains and venerable names such as the Ritz coexist with small independent hotels, some wonderfully eccentric. It would be a mistake to assume all London hotels are equally good or that every establishment receives a special tax advantage for quality service. The Pavilion Hotel in Sussex Gardens has long attracted attention for its boldly themed rooms, including such imaginative designs as Honky Tonky Afro and Casablanca Nights. Reports about celebrity stays and old nightly prices should be treated as period descriptions rather than current guarantees. As always, check recent reviews and availability before booking.

London also leads in fashion, with a long tradition of menswear tailoring on Savile Row. Its history includes the emergence of the dandy, the international impact of British tailoring, and the cultural revolutions of the 1960s. Ben Sherman and Fred Perry became internationally recognized names. Polo shirts are also associated with the French tennis player René Lacoste, so the style cannot be assigned to a single British inventor.

The British Fashion Council supports contemporary designers, and London Fashion Week takes place principally in February and September. Fashion events now use a variety of venues rather than being confined to Somerset House. Oxford Street, Piccadilly, Bond Street and Knightsbridge remain major shopping areas, with Harrods among the capital's most recognizable department stores.

Around the Country

If you visit Britain in warmer weather, take time to explore its seaside resorts. Yes, despite the popular image of endless rain and impenetrable fog, the country has striking stretches of coastline and lively resort towns. Torbay, often called the English Riviera, has a long holiday tradition. Eastbourne on the English Channel offers beaches and a genteel seafront, although sea temperatures vary and its beach is largely shingle rather than the white sand of some travel fantasies. Brighton, transformed by the fashion for sea bathing and royal patronage, is known for its arts, festival culture, nightlife, and a substantial LGBTQ+ community.

The large industrial cities of Britain are not everyone's ideal holiday destination: they can be noisy, busy, and emphatically urban. But dismissing them as uniformly gray would miss their museums, architecture and contemporary culture. Beatles admirers will certainly want to visit Liverpool, the musicians' hometown, including the Cavern Quarter and the Cavern Club associated with the band's beginnings.

Scotland, by contrast, offers a particularly powerful encounter with distinct traditions, languages, landscapes, and history. Its hundreds of islands, remote Highland regions, mountains, and lochs create an extraordinary sense of place. Its political future has also long been debated. Scotland voted on independence on September 18, 2014: 55.3 percent chose to remain in the United Kingdom, while 44.7 percent supported independence. The constitutional question has continued to generate debate, but that referendum did not bring separation.

The kilt is perhaps the most famous visual emblem of Scottish culture. Traditionally made of tartan wool and carefully pleated, it remains part of ceremonial dress and some military uniforms. A sporran, the small pouch worn at the front, serves as a pocket rather than merely as an anatomical shield.

Then there is haggis, that celebrated dish which tests the courage of some first-time visitors. Traditionally it is prepared from minced sheep's offal, oats, onions, suet, and spices, cooked in a casing, historically the animal's stomach. It is not generally made from an entire pig's internal organs. Pair it with Scottish whisky, another product inseparable from the country's cultural mythology.

Ireland is the westernmost of the two largest islands in the British Isles. Most of the island forms the independent Republic of Ireland; Northern Ireland, in the northeast, is part of the United Kingdom. The political and historical distinction matters, and a tour of “Britain” should not silently treat the whole island as British territory.

Irish traditions and cuisine are no less distinctive. The island is famous for step dancing and céilí, and institutions such as An Coimisiún Le Rincí Gaelacha helped standardize competitive Irish dance in the twentieth century. Riverdance brought these traditions to enormous international audiences, though it is a stage production rather than a traditional dance school. Centuries of political and cultural repression affected Irish language and music, but claims about one simple seventeenth-century blanket prohibition on all dance instruction require caution.

The twentieth century brought conflict, partition, and prolonged tensions in Northern Ireland. The 1998 Good Friday Agreement provided a framework for power sharing and peace, although political disagreements persist. Relations between Britain and Ireland today are more complex than the old language of permanent national enmity suggests.

From Irish cuisine, try a lamb stew with vegetables, Dublin coddle with sausages and bacon, potato boxty, and the sweet traditional preparation called goody. A hearty full Irish breakfast often includes eggs, bacon, sausage, tomatoes, mushrooms, beans, black or white pudding, and bread. You may also find it served all day in cafés.

During the colder months, Irish coffee—hot coffee, Irish whiskey, sugar and cream—can be particularly welcome. There is also poitín, the strong traditional spirit made from various fermentable ingredients. And no, Irish and British beer is not universally served warm; ales are often served at cellar temperature, while lagers and many other beers are served chilled.

Russians on the Islands

Some of the earliest Russian visitors to remain in England were young men sent abroad for study during the reign of Boris Godunov, who did not return home. In the late seventeenth century, Peter the Great visited England during the Great Embassy, studied shipbuilding, and toured scientific and industrial establishments. London has a monument commemorating his stay. Another significant figure was the Russian ambassador Semyon Vorontsov, whose long service in Britain left a trace in the city's place names, including Woronzow Road.

Britain repeatedly became involved in Russian politics, not always openly and not always honorably. The allegation that British agents ordered the assassination of Tsar Paul I, however, remains a historical hypothesis rather than a proven fact. In nineteenth-century London, Alexander Herzen published works that influenced Russian political thought. Prince Peter Kropotkin later lived in Britain, and Vladimir Lenin spent time in London as an exile. The 1903 congress of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party began in Brussels and moved to London, where the split between Bolsheviks and Mensheviks emerged. Stories that it was straightforwardly financed by English bankers require evidence.

After the revolution of 1917, members of the former Russian elite and other émigrés found refuge in Britain. Later waves of Russian-speaking migrants arrived for widely different reasons: work, education, political safety, investment, and family ties. Among the best-known cases were Alexander Litvinenko, whose 2006 poisoning in London was linked by a British public inquiry to Russian state security officers, and the businessman Boris Berezovsky, who died in 2013.

The presence of wealthy newcomers also helped sustain lucrative British industries: security agencies, financial advisers, lawyers, private schools, household staff, architects, designers, and luxury real-estate brokers. Critics argue that British institutions sometimes welcomed questionable fortunes with insufficient scrutiny. More recently, sanctions, stronger financial transparency requirements and scrutiny of foreign investment have complicated that comfortable relationship. Yet the old attraction of London as a safe place for wealth and opportunity has not simply vanished.

Britain: The Islands of Fortune?

For centuries, Britain has offered refuge to people fleeing persecution, revolution, poverty, and political disgrace. Among those arriving on its shores were philosophers, writers, revolutionaries, political dissidents, and wealthy businessmen whose fortunes were not always easy to explain. Some sought freedom. Others sought security for their money. Quite a few sought both.

In the twenty-first century, this tradition has acquired an increasingly controversial dimension. London became a favored destination for international millionaires and billionaires, including wealthy Russians, Chinese entrepreneurs, and investors from the Middle East. Entire industries developed around their needs: luxury real estate, private security, financial consulting, exclusive schools, lawyers, interior designers, and domestic staff. British hospitality proved especially generous to those who could afford it.

But while wealthy foreigners purchased multimillion-pound mansions, a very different category of newcomers arrived in Britain: migrants seeking employment, families escaping wars, and asylum seekers crossing the English Channel in small boats.

These arrivals have become one of the most divisive issues in British politics. Brexit was promoted partly as an opportunity to regain control over immigration. Yet leaving the European Union did not end the debate. Britain continues to depend on migrant workers in healthcare, social care, agriculture, hospitality, and other sectors, even as successive governments have sought to restrict immigration and tighten asylum procedures.

The numbers have also changed. According to the UK Office for National Statistics, provisional net migration fell to 171,000 in the year ending December 2025, down from a revised 331,000 in 2024 and a peak of 944,000 in the year ending March 2023. These are figures for long-term migration, not a count of small-boat arrivals or asylum applications; collapsing those very different categories into one is part of the confusion surrounding the debate.

The controversy is not simply about numbers. Britain faces a shortage of affordable housing, pressure on public services, and persistent regional inequalities. Immigration has become a convenient explanation for problems that often developed over decades. At the same time, questions about border enforcement, the cost of asylum accommodation, and the capacity of local communities to absorb newcomers cannot simply be dismissed.

And so Britain faces a familiar historical dilemma. The country whose prosperity was built in part on international commerce, imperial expansion, and the movement of people and capital is struggling to decide who should be allowed to share in that prosperity.

The irony is difficult to miss. A foreign billionaire purchasing a London mansion may be welcomed as an investor, while a penniless refugee arriving on a crowded boat becomes the subject of a national political crisis.

Perhaps the British have not changed quite as much as they imagine. Behind the ancient institutions, royal ceremonies, impeccable tailoring, and famous respect for tradition, the same practical calculation continues to operate: who benefits, who pays, and who gets to stay? After all, money has never had much of a smell on these fortunate islands. But poverty, apparently, is another matter.